Montmartre
18th arrondissement
Despite numerous trips to Paris (study abroad included), I’d somehow never made it to Montmartre. It always seemed a bit too out of the way — or I was a bit too hungover to make the class trip. (Study abroad. Please don’t judge me. I was young.) This time around, I made it a point to finally visit the part of Paris that had eluded me for decades. In fact, for better or worse, I booked a 3-night stay right in the heart of it.
Should you stay in Montmartre during your trip to Paris?
Montmartre is the kind of neighborhood that makes you wish you lived in Paris. Wander far enough from the main tourist areas and you’ll find quieter streets, beautiful buildings, and locals just going about their day. It feels cozy and neighborhood-y in the best possible way.
The catch? The areas closest to the main attractions — Sacré-Cœur, the Place du Tertre — are crowded, touristy, and lined with mediocre restaurants. And being in the 18th arrondissement means you’ll need to budget a good chunk of time to get to other spots on your list.
If you only have a few days in Paris and want to maximize your time, there are more centrally located neighborhoods worth considering. But if you’re set on Montmartre, here’s what to know before you book.
Where to stay in Montmartre
We chose the Terrass Hotel not because we loved the idea of looking out at a cemetery, but purely because of square footage. The “Privilege Room – Eiffel Tower View” gives you a whopping 300+ square feet. For a city with notoriously small hotel rooms, I was psyched. The bathroom was huge, too. (Despite being a fairly small human, I hate feeling cramped in a bathroom!) The rooms, while not the most luxurious, were modern and clean, and the location put us right in the center of everything you’d want to see in the area.
And the cemetery view? Actually pretty cool, especially with the Eiffel Tower peeking out in the distance. All in all, I’d recommend the Terrass for a few nights in Montmartre.
Other Places to Stay
If you’re feeling particularly fancy or are celebrating an occasion, the hidden Hotel Particulier is your spot. Everything from their five unique suites to their hotel bar looks immaculately designed, and I can only imagine the service is just as good.
If Airbnbs are your thing, here is a cozy little studio with a balcony (look at that bedroom wallpaper!) and here’s a modern one-bedroom flat. Both with air conditioning, of course.
Where to eat in Montmartre
Be wary of Google reviews of restaurants in Montmartre. I’m not saying there are fake reviews; there are just a lot of tourist traps that somehow still have an above-4.5 rating. We had one of the worst meals of our lives at a restaurant that was shockingly well rated. Think pre-fried and frozen meat cutlet (honestly can’t remember which animal) with the breading peeling off of a grayish lump. The only thing edible at that place was the wine. The restaurant was packed, though!
We did, eventually, eat well.
They take poultry seriously here. The menu is comprised of pure-bred chicken, quail, duck, guinea fowl…and everything that comes from said birds. Bear that in mind before bringing your vegetarian friends. But if you revere poultry (or just want really good chicken), make a reservation now and start dreaming of the best coq au vin and roast chicken you’ll probably ever have.
La Cave des Abbesses is wine and cheese and meat (and baguette and butter) heaven. This is the kind of place you dream of having as your neighborhood wine bar. What more can I say? We visited twice in three days.
Stop by Bistrot Baguette for a few pastries and grab a seat along the window to people watch while slowly dusting yourself in buttery flakes of croissant.
Should you visit the Sacré-Cœur?
If you love churches and don’t mind waiting in line for hours, then you should absolutely visit the Sacré-Cœur. Soak in the views, check out the inside of the church and the basilica, have a ball. (A quiet and respectful ball, that is.)
If you’re like me and balk at the sight of twisty, turny lines with no end in sight, especially under a hot July sun… perhaps just take an obligatory pic and head back down the hill. Preferably to a wine bar.
The Mimi Edit 
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