In high school, I visited Athens on a school trip. Given that this was in the early 2000s, all I remember is that it was unbearably hot, the city completely shuts down on Sundays, and the people were extremely nice — including one man who parked his motorcycle mid-ride to walk a group of lost American teenagers back to their hotel. A few years later, I spent a week in Santorini. While Athens lives in my memory as the color yellow, Santorini is a vivid splash of blue and white. The Greece you see in movies (or maybe just Mamma Mia). The food was fresh, the wind was strong, the people were, again, extremely nice.

For no real reason, I kind of expected Crete to be a mix of the two: some mishmash of city and island, a swirl of yellow and blue. Turns out, I wasn’t all wrong.

Is Crete worth visiting?

In a word: ohmygodyes. Crete is absolutely worth visiting. Just thinking about it is making me want to book a return flight. Whatever vibe you’re going for, Crete probably has it. Big city energy? Heraklion’s your spot. Something smaller and more relaxed? Try Chania or Rethymno. Want to escape the rest of the world entirely? There are beach and mountain towns that will make you forget your real life exists. And the food! A Greek colleague of mine (from Athens, no less) told me Crete has the best food in all of Greece. I’m inclined to agree.

A few things to know before you go:

• Crete is a big island, and a rental car is essential if you really want to explore. Fair warning: automatics can be hard to come by, and we ended up driving stick through some genuinely harrowing streets. Jaw-clenching at times, but worth it.
• Plan to spend at least 5-7 days if you can. This isn’t a trip you want to rush. Even if you’re someone who lives by a tight itinerary, you’ll likely stumble upon some beach or neighborhood restaurant or winery that makes you want to stay for hours.

Where to stay in Crete

MOS Luxury City Suites (Chania)

We spent the majority of our trip in Chania. To really get a feel for the place, we booked this two-bedroom Airbnb in a quieter neighborhood, about a 10-15 minute walk from the Old Venetian Port. I’d highly recommend it for groups of two to four. It was clean, modern, and the air conditioning was gloriously strong. We also stumbled upon our favorite restaurant of the entire trip in this neighborhood, but more on that later.

Heads up: street parking is your only option, so do yourself a favor and memorize Chania’s color-coded parking system before you even get in the rental car. We learned the hard way.

• White lines: Free public parking
• Blue lines: Paid parking during the day
• Yellow lines: Residents only

Pnoé Breathing Life (Heraklion)

This is the place for people who love being outside but still want a luxurious hotel stay with all the amenities. You can spend an entire day dipping in and out of water. Within five minutes of check-in, I’d splashed into our private pool (proof below). An hour later, we were lounging by the ultra-tranquil main pool with wine in hand. There’s also a path that leads straight down to the beautiful but pebbly beach. (Third picture in the carousel = me trying to run into the water while getting pelted by sharp rocks.)

Once you arrive at the Pnoé, you won’t want to leave. And the good thing is, you won’t have to. Order room service to start the day, enjoy dinner at one of the on-site restaurants, and grab a nightcap at the bar. Then snuggle up in your king-sized bed, fall asleep to a movie on the TV that seamlessly doubles as a mirror (what!), and start the whole thing over again the next day. Life is good at Pnoé.

Other Places to Stay

To be honest, we stayed at an Airbnb in Chania mainly because we were booking last minute (in the summer, no less ), and hotels were either fully booked or ridiculously expensive. I ended up loving our rental and the more residential neighborhood feel, but if you want to be in the center of it all, check out the Domus Renier Boutique Hotel or the Casa Delfino Hotel & Spa.

Things to do in Crete

Visit Elafonisi Beach

After watching a handful of YouTubers making the stomach-dropping drive to Elafonisi Beach, we decided to save ourselves the stress and leave the driving to the professionals. We booked the “Elafonisi Beach and Milia Mountain Retreat with Lunch” tour with Chania Adventures and couldn’t have been happier. Our guide (and driver, thankfully) was friendly, knowledgeable, and took care of everything: beach chair rentals at Elafonisi, towels, snacks, water, and lunch at the Milia Mountain Retreat. We had such an enjoyable day — starting off with a swim and a nap at one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen, ending with lunch at a 17th-century mountain settlement — and didn’t have to worry about a thing.

I can’t stress this enough: unless you’re a really confident driver, book a tour or hire a professional. I knew the drive to Elafonisi was going to be scary — and it was! — but the steep, winding climb up to Milia nearly gave me a heart attack. (The roads are dotted with roadside memorials, and that’s all I’ll say about that.)

Visit a Winery in Crete

I can’t recommend Scalarea Estate enough. Upon arrival, we were greeted by the friendliest host and taken on a private tour of the vineyards and cellars. Afterward, we parked ourselves in the modern, airy tasting room overlooking the vineyards and spent the next hour or so tasting their best wines alongside local meats and cheeses. The wines were unlike anything I’d ever tasted, as it was my first introduction to indigenous Cretan grapes. I fell in love with the rosé, made with a blend of syrah and kotsifali, and couldn’t leave without a bottle. The tasting went so far beyond my expectations, and I can’t wait to go back — maybe even stay on the property!

Other Things to Do in Crete

Five days in Crete was barely enough to scratch the surface. We left without visiting Knossos Palace, wandering through the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, or checking out the incredible landscapes of Balos Beach. All on the list for our next visit!

Where to eat in Crete

We never had a bad meal in Crete. I’m honestly not sure it’s possible with all those fresh ingredients! But these are the meals I still dream about to this day…

Kantouni

I’m salivating just thinking about the freshly grilled lamb chops and sausages, the fresh salads and dips and blocks of feta, even the shots of raki at the end. What really makes this neighborhood restaurant special, though, is how friendly the owner is and the sense of community he cultivates. We went back twice in three days.

Neoria Fish Tavern

Sitting by the edge of the water, watching the boats sway gently, and enjoying the shade on a hot July afternoon. Nibbling on a fresh salad, grilled vegetables, and tiny fried fish (pop ’em in whole!). Is it a little expensive? Sure. But you’re here for the vibes as much as the food. It’s even got Anthony Bourdain’s stamp of approval.

Ellotia

Ellotia takes indoor-outdoor dining to the next level. The trees, birdhouses, and neighborhood cats add to the charm and magic of the place — and the food is just icing on the cake. Make a reservation; it gets packed during busier seasons, for good reason. One day, when I’m prepared to be really disappointed, I’ll attempt to recreate their zucchini fritters with yogurt sauce.

Final thoughts on Crete

Writing this has made me ache for the hot, windy days on my new favorite island. I miss the kind people, the lazy cats, and the food. I really can’t say enough about Cretan food. We ate so well yet never felt an ounce of guilt; if anything, we felt healthier than we ever had while traveling. Everything was fresh and locally sourced, every meal naturally built around vegetables. No wonder Crete fared so well in Ancel Keys’ Seven Countries Study.

Thinking about planning your own trip to Crete? I’d love to help.