Bordeaux
France
Being a certified wine nerd, Bordeaux was a dream destination. In my dreams, though, the region wasn’t experiencing an early summer heat wave with temperatures reaching nearly 100 degrees every day. (Might I suggest visiting in the spring?) Even so, the heat couldn’t ruin our trip. Before we even got to the wine, the architecture enveloped us and left us in awe. Paris is beautiful in a light, romantic way; Bordeaux is equally beautiful but somehow darker, more intense. And then we got to the wine, and…well, I’m already planning our next trip back.
We only had three days in Bordeaux, so we mainly stayed in the city. Given more time, I would’ve loved to drive around the wine region and spend a few nights at a luxury wine châteaux. But if you’ll be roaming around the city like we did, here are a few of the things I loved most about our sweaty long weekend.
Where to stay in Bordeaux
We loved our stay at Hotel Burdigala, a modern hotel just a 10-minute walk from the historic center of Bordeaux. Our Duplex Room felt more like a well-decorated rental than a hotel room — separate living area, cozy bedroom loft, a bonus half bath, and two TVs. The half bath would’ve been my favorite feature, but we visited during a July heat wave, and the strong air conditioning won. We spent one particularly hot afternoon holed up watching Brooklyn Nine-Nine and didn’t regret a single minute.
For a more intimate luxury experience, check out Villas Foch, a 20-room boutique hotel housed in a restored mansion. Next time I’m in Bordeaux, I’m staying in one of their Deluxe Rooms and spending an entire afternoon gazing out the gorgeous Haussmann windows. And eventually, I’ll pry myself away for a glass of Champagne at the cozy, velvet-covered hotel bar.
Other Places to Stay
If you prefer to stay in the chic residential neighborhood of Chartrons, there’s the Philippe Starck-designed Mondrian. More of a rental person? Consider this air-conditioned loft with beautiful stone walls and wooden beams, or this modern one-bedroom with daily cleaning service. Whatever you choose, just make sure it has strong air conditioning if you’re visiting in the summer.
What to do in Bordeaux
Wine nerd or not, you’ll have fun at this one-of-a-kind immersive wine museum. You’re given a headset upon entry and it’s choose-your-own-adventure from there. I loved sniffing the common aromas of white and red wines at the Buffet of The Five Senses, learning the history of how wine traveled throughout the world, and — of course — choosing a glass of Bordeaux to taste at the end while looking out at the Garonne River.
If you’re staying in the historic center, the Cité du Vin is just a quick tram ride away. It’s a great way to spend a few hours, especially on a hot day.
Visit the Famous Wine Regions of Bordeaux
While many of the châteaux offer tastings and it’s absolutely possible to DIY a wine adventure, we decided to leave the planning and driving to the pros. We booked a half-day Saint-Émilion tour with Bordeaux Wine Trails and couldn’t have been happier. Not only did we visit two Grand Cru châteaux for private tastings, but we also got to spend time in the historic town of Saint-Émilion, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Our guide was fun and incredibly knowledgeable; we learned just as much about the neighborhoods of Bordeaux as we did about local winemaking trends.
As mentioned, we were in the middle of a heat wave, so the dream of prancing through a vineyard didn’t quite materialize. It was more of a mad dash from the air-conditioned van to the air-conditioned tasting rooms, but it was a great day all the same!
Shop Along the Rue Sainte-Catherine
Rue Sainte-Catherine is supposedly the longest pedestrian shopping street in France. I can’t confirm that, but I can confirm it is indeed very long and has something for every kind of shopper. Had I not been primed by years in Taipei, where shopping is a favorite pastime, I might have been overwhelmed. Not to worry, though: there are plenty of wine bars and cafes to duck into along the way.
People-Watch at Place de la Bourse
Park yourself by the fountain at Place de la Bourse, and take in the vastness and history of this remarkable city. Then stroll around to discover more of Bordeaux’s famed landmarks: Porte Cailhau, once the main gate; Grosse Cloche, an 18th-century bell tower; Opéra National de Bordeaux, a grand theater with a façade dating back to 1780. I never stopped being awed by the architecture of Bordeaux.
The Bordeaux Meals I’m Still Thinking About
This temple to all things duck was recommended by our wine tour guide, and it was the best meal of the trip by far. I’m salivating just thinking about the duck rillette with pickles, perfectly cooked duck breast, and a decadent duck sausage sandwiched between buttery brioche. (If you’re tired of reading the word duck, imagine me trying to type this while my laptop tried its hardest to correct “duck” to “fuck” every. single. time.) Order a few glasses of rosé Champagne to balance out the richness, and you’re all set. No dessert necessary.
Being big fans of sleeping in, we arrived at the Marché des Capucins just as most stalls were closing. Luckily, Chez Jean-Mi was still dishing out platter after platter of shellfish — oysters that tasted like the ocean, sweet and delicate shrimp and crab claws, and…whelks. I’m still on the fence about whelks, but they were fresh as can be. This was such a standout meal that I didn’t even mind sweating profusely throughout, thighs stuck to my chair. That’s what chilled glasses of white wine are for, anyway.
Le Bar à Vin translates to “The Wine Bar” — and it really is THE wine bar. Housed in an 18th‑century building that’s now home to the Bordeaux Wine Council, Le Bar à Vin is at once grand and opulent yet intimate and cozy. With a larger-than-life stained glass window, illuminated floor-to-ceiling wine racks, and sommeliers guiding you through the experience, you wouldn’t expect to find a glass of red wine on the menu for 3€. And yet. I really thought something was lost in translation when I looked through the menu and saw multiple options for 3€-5€. After trying a few, we ordered the most expensive glass they offered: a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru for just 12€. I’m still in shock.
Perhaps it’s that I’m from LA, where paying upwards of $20 for a glass of mediocre wine is completely normal. It was so refreshing to be somewhere that encourages you to explore and enjoy, where the focus is on providing a quality Bordeaux wine experience without the gatekeeping.
Three days in Bordeaux was just enough to fall in love. But there’s so much more wine to taste, duck to eat, and architecture to stand in front of with my mouth open. If you’re ready to start planning your own Bordeaux trip, I’d love to help make it happen.
The Mimi Edit 
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