The food scene in Lisbon is one of my favorites in the world, and I had some of my top bites of the year on this recent trip. Friends have been asking for recommendations, and I perhaps took the job a little too seriously. Here’s everything I’d eat and drink again if I could teleport back to Lisbon.

Parra Wine Bistro

This intimate, trendy wine bistro is exactly that: wine first, bistro second. They’re serious about their wines — mostly natural — and the food is meant to pair perfectly. We went with a group of six and ordered almost the entire menu, with our server recommending many (many) excellent bottles throughout the meal. While my taste buds got a little hazy toward the end, the bites I couldn’t forget were the unctuous stuffed crab, the plumpest mussels I’ve ever had, and the pork cheek croquettes topped with thin slivers of presunto.

Páteo – Bairro do Avillez

Set in the beautiful courtyard (or páteo) of Chef José Avillez’s multi-concept playground, Páteo expertly walks the tightrope between everyday and special occasion. The food is anything but pretentious, yet every dish is executed to perfection: the best clams we’d ever had, the best green beans, the best piri piri chicken. That last one was a surprise; I wasn’t expecting much when a few chicken thighs arrived at the table, but damn, were those thighs juicy! And the service made it even better: our server gave expert recommendations when we sat down, then took the time to write down a few of his favorite restaurants for us to try during our trip. We left feeling full, warm, and very well taken care of.

Tasca Zé dos Cornos

Tasca Zé dos Cornos was recommended by our server at Páteo, and he did not lead us astray. From the moment we stepped inside, we were treated like regulars. And lucky for us, we sat next to a group of men who really were regulars: chatting boisterously with the servers, throwing an arm around my partner’s shoulder, and speaking passionately to him in Portuguese. We couldn’t quite understand the words, but we definitely got the vibes. Food-wise, expect hearty tasca fare. You can’t go wrong with anything grilled, and don’t skip the bacalhau fritters! But honestly, it’s the environment you’re coming for.

Insaciável

I’d love nothing more than to spend all my summer evenings snacking and sipping on the sidewalk outside Insaciável, a wine bar so effortlessly cool, it’s almost annoying. Tucked away on a quieter street, it exudes relaxed neighborhood vibes and immediately makes you want to stay awhile. And you should. Stay long enough to sample everything on their chalkboard menu of small plates. If porchetta is on the list that day, don’t think twice and order two.

Castro – Atelier de Pastéis de Nata

We sampled a solid lineup of pastéis de nata during our trip: some from random cafes, some from the ever-popular Manteigaria, even one from the OG Pastéis de Belém. All were delicious, but none stood out quite like the ones from Castro. Eaten warm, with plenty of cinnamon and powdered sugar, the perfectly crisp pastry practically caves in on itself as the just-sweet-enough custard gushes into your mouth. We could’ve eaten a dozen if the heatwave hadn’t rendered us near-catatonic.

Sea Me Peixaria Moderna

Most people visiting Lisbon probably have Cervejaria Ramiro on their must-visit seafood list — I’m one of them. But Sea Me was recommended by a friend and happened to be in a more convenient location, so we stopped by on a whim for what turned out to be a belly-bursting seafood feast. Their menu includes a curated selection of starters, mains, and even sushi, but we skipped the whole thing and headed straight to their “Seafood Marketplace” to choose from a daily selection of fresh-caught fish and shellfish. We may have gone a bit overboard: half a dozen oysters (not pictured), two enormous tiger shrimp that were basically baby lobsters, a pound of the plumpest razor clams I’d ever had, half a grilled [insert type of fish I can’t remember], and a side of tomato rice. While every bite was as fresh as can be, the tomato rice was the sleeper hit. So simple, yet so flavorful. Whatever you order, don’t skip it.

O Trevo

For something simple and satisfying, walk up to the counter of O Trevo and order a bifana with cheese. Douse it with chili oil, wash it down with a beer, and you’ll be in and out in under 10 minutes. They do have a few tables if you’d rather sit — just be prepared to wait.

Sol e Pesca

This Bourdain-approved, tackle shop-themed tinned fish bar is exactly as chill as promised. It’s the perfect place to spend a few lazy hours with friends, sipping on jugs of house white wine and working your way through tin after tin of anything from the sea. Our perfect weeknight evening: arriving around 6:00PM, wandering down to the river at sunset, and heading to Time Out Market for a few extra bites before bed.

Le 17.45 Lisboa

The name doesn’t give much away, but wander inside and you’ll find a modern yet cozy wine bar with a wall full of charcuterie boards in all shapes and sizes. Their menus — both wine and snacks — are half French, half Portuguese. There’s something for everyone, but our server did an excellent job of gently guiding us toward Portuguese wines he thought we’d like based on stated preferences. His passion for Portuguese winemaking really made the experience. So if you stumble into Le 17.45 on your next trip, don’t even open the menu; just let yourself be guided.

Black Sheep

Tucked away in Príncipe Real, Black Sheep is the tiny neighborhood wine bar of your dreams. I strolled in solo one evening and immediately felt comfortable, safe, and welcome. You can grab one of the stools inside what’s really more of a shed than a shop (in the best way), or leave either your ID or a little cash as insurance and take your wine outside. There’s a park right across the street that’s perfect for sipping while people-watching.

IF IF IF

I might just have a knack for finding tiny spaces to drink incredible wine — this one’s even smaller than Black Sheep. IF IF IF does Georgian food and natural wine in a quieter corner of Lisbon, near the Botanical Garden. The space inside is smaller than my grad school studio in New York City, but it’s homey and perfect. My only regret: we went right before closing and didn’t get to try the food!

Queijaria

I may be wrong, but I think this cheese shop is just called Cheese Shop, and it’s the best one I’ve ever been to. The owner sources all of the cheeses, wines, and other products himself, and he was welcoming from the moment we walked in: offering suggestions, samples, and wine pairings for the three Portuguese cheeses we ended up buying. The moment I knew he was 100% legit? He cautioned me against buying too many bottles of wine and told me to just come back the next day if I wanted to try more. If you’re staying in Príncipe Real and need a snack, this is your place.

Planning a trip to Lisbon? I’d love to help you put it together! Let’s talk.